Montana / Wyoming Border
April 2019 Backcountry Adventure
January 2019 I started planning a new great adventure to somewhere new. As I did my best to plan a trip to the Missoula, MT area I found the logistics of planning this trip to my satisfaction was becoming to complex. By March I was experiencing heavy amounts of stress in my overall life when I happened to come across a Youtube video that just had been posted by a person I follow. It was one of his hiking adventures into an area I’ve always wanted to hike into. As I watched the video I felt this excitement come over me which I had not felt for a while. I quickly check hotels, flights, and rental cars to see if I could make it work. To my surprise the end of April into the beginning of May would work. Within minutes I booked a trip for 12 days, then about 30 minutes later I went OMG, what had I just done! I had already spent 76 days in this area over the past few years with great amounts of knowledge. But, I had to remind myself this was more of a get lost in nature trip versus a photograph trip. If I was able to take some great photographs it would be a bonus. My promise to myself was not to set any expectations but take this time and enjoy / adapt to what ever comes my way.
My days started at 3:45 am and on the road by 4:15 am. First light was about 5:20 am with clear skies. I had 3 mornings where heavy snow was falling (rented a Toyota 4Runner). Many mornings were in the low teens but would warm up into the mid 40’s by late afternoon. Every day I did at least a 5+ hour hike with one day where I just sat in one spot for 5 hours just taking it all in.
It took me several days to unwind but on the 2rd day during a 7 hour, 5 mile off trail hike (big loop) I had many “this is what life is about” experiences. What I experienced was nothing but the sounds of nature by myself with wildlife all around me. Even though I was not far from where I parked my vehicle the large ridge that separated the road from where I went down into this ravine area was in a way very remote. Before I set out for the day I knew the weather was going to be a challenge. They were predicting for that elevation periods of heavy rain/snow squalls. Well I was prepared. About half way into this adventure I saw the first of two dark and heavy grey walls of weather coming my way. I picked a nice spot to sit and it went from no wind to heavy gusts and a combination of hard rain/sleet coming down. The first one lasted about 25 mins and then before I knew it another one came. During this time I just took in all of this with a Black Bear that walked near me and a heard of Bison (about 20) come through. For me it was so peaceful that and so connected with nature that there is no way to describe what I felt into words. This day set the tone for the rest of my time on this adventure.
Overall its really hard for me to but into words all the special moments and experiences of this adventure. Scroll down to learn more about this adventure I took,
Tom
Tom’s Safety Gear
Here is what I take with me on my daily or over night adventures:
Two cans of bear spray on my belt
Iridium Extreme 9575 Satellite Phone
ACR ResQLink “personal locator beacon” registered with NOAA.gov
GARMIN GPSMAP 64st
Food and Water
Water filtration device
Emergency Blanket with Waterproof Matches
Here some of the many special moments I capture on this adventure
All the photographs of me were taken with my camera on a small tripod using a 8 second timer. I was totally on my own which I really enjoy the solitude of just me and nature.
My first day of hiking in Montana. I never made it to where I wanted to go because there was still deep and slushy snow. Didn’t want to slip on those steep slopes.
My last day I when to hike up into this area. Never had hiked this before but as I got back in there it was tough going. Next time I come out here I will make sure this is one of my first outings. By the way, if you look at the picture to the left of this one. The mountain peak on the right side of the photo is the mountain peak in this photo.
Second day of hiking in the backcountry off-trail. In this picture I’m holding my Nikon D5 with a 600mm f/4 lens. Over my right shoulder on the snow covered peak is where I was trying to hike up to on the first day.
Looking right of where the picture of me was taken on the second day. I’ve hiked the full length of this ravine at the bottom and along the higher edges many times. I just this area because of the toughness and the amount of wildlife you see in here.
Here is what I found along the ravine. This small Bull Elk didn’t have a chance in this area. Must of been by himself.
As I was hiking off trail, now I must say this, when I hike in Bear country I do so in a manor that I only take a few steps at time being as quite as possible, stoping to listen/observe for 3-5 min’s before moving on. The goal is to see them before they see me. This way I deal with the situation as required. This is a great example. I had just stop when I observed this Black Bear walking by. It never saw me as it went on it’s way.
Just after the Black Bear walked by I sat down for a while. Then a few Bison Bulls came right by me. This one heard the clicking of the camera, looked at me, and went on his way.
I love this area too. I went to hike back in the area to the mid-right of this photo. The only issue was the river I needed to cross starting to flow pretty good and didn’t want to chance slipping on the small boulders. There is a trail that goes up and around the mountain peak on the left into the next valley. One day I will do it!
Here i’ve hiked up to a peak looking north. The area below I’ve hiked down, over the first ridge, and then down to the base of the next mountain many times over the years. It’s about an 8 miles round trip. The two photographs below are two different past experiences I’ve had within the wetland below and the ridge just behind the wetland.
I took this photo of a Grizzly laying on a carcass in the fall of 2016. This was in just below where I took the photo of myself above.
Took this photo of a pack of wolves on the ridge line just to the left of my hand in the picture above. Fall of 2016.
Here is the only sunrise photograph I was able to get. Nothing special but it was a special moment to partially capture this wonderful experience. Took this photo at 5:43 am on the coldest morning of this trip at 10 degrees. What really made this experience so special was down below in the valley the wolves started howling as I took this picture with a moon crest of 51.3 %. The howling only lasted for about 5 minutes and I just stood there taking it all in. It was another special experience of this adventure!!!
Everyday I was on the road by 4:14 AM heading out to different areas. 3 of the mornings I experience heavy snow. Lucky I was only one of the few out at this time in the morning. I just love mornings like this!!!
This was a different morning in a different area. Enjoyed this so much!!!
Lucky I rented a Toyota FourRunner 4x4!!!
Here is some slow moving traffic on this early snowy morning!!!
On my second last day of my trip I decided to hike up to an area that I could oversee two valleys. Took me 1 1/2 hours to hike up here. I found these Elk antlers about 20 ft from each other. Not in the picture to the right were several larger boulders he used to knock them off.
Just to the right of tree on the right of this picture I spent 5 hours just sitting and having a spiritual experience (see pic below).
Here is where I sat for 5 hours having a wonderful spiritual experience by the tree mid-right in the photo above just listening to the sounds of nature and observing it. It was just me with the 40+ winds, wind chills, hiding behind a large boulder to stay out of the wind at times so I could let the sun warm up. just listening to the sounds of nature.
This was another amazing experience and one I will never forget!!!
Bison Calf Delivery Experience
All these photo’s were taken at a safe distance with my Nikon D5 / 600mm f/4 lens. FYI, just after the birth heavy snow started to fall which made it very difficult to photograph. Just another example of the elements of the environment can change in a second.
The big highlight of my trip was to witness a Bison calf being born. Growing up working a farm I saw many calfs being born but witnessing this right from the beginning was very special. At first I noticed she was arching her back and before I knew it I could see hoofs coming out. You can see the head and hoofs as the calf is being delivered. Just after this picture mom laid down and the next thing I saw was an explosion fo the calf coming out. Sometimes you miss the shot because you are enjoying what is going on. This was one of those moments.
Just amazing experience!!!
Mom continues to push the calf to start walking.
Within minutes mom was licking/nudging the calf to stand up. This photograph shows moments of standing for the first time with a little help from mom!
Calf finds its way under mom for the first time.
Danger is everywhere! Within 15 mins of being born a Coyote shows up but mom and the other Bison’s close by start to circle the wagon. With the river in the background that wraps around us adds more danger for the newly born calf. The Coyote ended up going over to the afterbirth and eating it. Mom with the other Bison moved further away to a safer location.
Here is my one of my favorite photographs. When I was photographing the birth of the cafe I turned around and saw this.
Other Wildlife Experiences
Sometimes you are in the right spot with the right action but at the wrong time of the day. I was lucky to spent 30 mins with this Grizzly sow and her 2 year old cub. Here they are playing in the water. The big nightmare for any photographer at this time of day is, heatwave… :(
Even though it’s 40 degrees out, the suns reflection off the sage created a heatwave that my Nikon D5/600mm f/4 lens had deal with. At least I could still capture the event even though all the photos are soft. It was a great experience!!!
Just after it stopped snowing one morning I headed out to hike up to this one meadow I like to hang out in.. As I was walking my eyes were actually looking (right) up the slope to see if I could see anything. Then out of the corner of my eye something caught my attention (left) but I wasn’t sure what it was. I stopped looked and about 25 ft from me was this big Black Bear Boar laying next to this log with its head just off the ground. I just stood there not moving to see what his next move was. That is when he just laid his had down on the log and I took this picture. Not often I get to see a lazy sleepy bear who could care less about me. Once I took this picture I headed off up the slope never to see him again..
Came across this female wolf for a few minutes. Took this picture with my Nikon D5 / 600mm f/4 with a 1.4x teleconverter on before she disappear into the forest.
One very early morning I was hiking along this creek and came across several Moose. Here is a female Moose coming right at me down the creek. Just after I took this picture I had to get up on the bank to watch her walk right by me. Just another great experience!